MEET THE CHEF: PAUL AINSWORTH, THE AINSWORTH COLLECTION
What’s your earliest food memory? I grew up in my parents’ guesthouse, and my earliest food memory is my parents cooking for their guests every night. Dad would cook wholesome family meals like Shepherd’s Pie during the week while my mum, who is from the Seychelles, would cook fragrantly spiced dishes at the weekend. I get my love of cooking and looking after guests from them.
Did you always want to be a chef? When I left school, I had no idea what I wanted to do. I started working at a hotel kitchen and was entrusted by the chefs to make toasted sandwiches for guests’ lunches. I became ‘The Breville master’ and would race up from the kitchen just to watch guests enjoying my toasted masterpieces. From then on, I was hooked. I had found a passion for cooking and joined my local catering college. My career as a chef started from there.
Tell us about your career – where have you worked / trained? When I left college, I joined the late, great Gary Rhodes at his Michelin-starred restaurant, Rhodes in the Square. Gary was a new kind of chef that wouldn’t put anything on the plate that didn’t deserve to be there. He was charismatic, a tv personality with the most mesmerising hair. It was an exciting time, and I learned so much. After three years with Gary, I went to work for Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road. Signing up with Gordon was a bit like joining the culinary version of the SAS. The work was relentless, but I am proud to say I was one of the team when the restaurant was awarded its third Michelin star. From there I went to Petrus and worked with Marcus Wareing and was then offered the job of Head Chef at what is now Paul Ainsworth at No6.
What’s your favourite thing about working in Cornwall The people, the produce and the scenery. I’m surrounded by people who are as passionate about ingredients as I am, and artisan producers who are raising incredible pasture-fed meat, bringing me dayboat caught, sustainable fish and the best shellfish, bread, cheese, and free-range eggs, as well as cheese and dairy artisans. There are so many craftspeople doing incredible things right on my doorstep. To add to that, you’ve got wonderful coves where my family and I love to enjoy beach days with a barbeque, or long walks with Freddie our dog. It’s the perfect place to raise a family.
What’s your favourite ingredient to work with and why? That’s a difficult question. My favourite ingredients change with the seasons. In spring our chefs always look forward to welcoming St Enodoc asparagus, along with lamb and monkfish or crab. In summer we love British soft fruits, heritage tomatoes, all kinds of salad leaves, along with mackerel, John Dory, turbot and other sustainable fish. In autumn we’re heading into more hearty territory with root vegetables and English apples and pears. It’s also the start of game season. In winter it’s the brassicas, and a time when beef and pork are plentiful. For me, seasonal ingredients always tastes best!
Aside from your own, what Cornish restaurants would you recommend? One of my favourite places to eat is Nancarrow Farm. Jack Bristow and his team are doing amazing things in a stunning location as well as growing his own produce. Charlie Walters’ restaurant Narla in Fowey is also a must-try. Rick Stein’s Seafood restaurant is iconic in Padstow and is celebrating its 50th year – what an incredible achievement. Just about everywhere you look there are cafes, delis, restaurants, pop ups and food trucks tucked all over Cornwall, including one of my favourites ‘Wild Bake’ woodfired pizzas by Lewis Cole. We are spoiled for choice and it’s a foodie’s delight.
What has been your most interesting / fun experience from your time working as a chef? My proudest day was when Paul Ainsworth at No6 was awarded a Michelin star. It was truly an unforgettable day. Writing my first cookbook was another milestone moments for me. Eighteen years in the making, it took nearly a year to write, but I’m so proud of how it turned out. I’ve done so many things I’ve really enjoyed, like the low tide pop ups on the beach we did in Rock over three summers, our Travelling Feast festival series, and cooking at the Harry Potter studios in Dumbledore’s office for two VIP guests. I’ve also cooked on the peak of a ski resort and taken a taste of No6 to New York. As a chef, you never know where this career will take you next!
Which chef do you most admire and why? I have huge admiration for Tom and Beth Kerridge who have inspired my wife Emma and I so much, as well as other chef friends like Sat Bains, Clare Smyth, Claude Bosi and Daniel Clifford to name a few. But I think my greatest admiration goes to Gordon Ramsay. He has built a huge global restaurant empire and has retained 3 Michelin stars at Royal Hospital Road. To achieve 1 star is incredible; 3 stars is the Holy Grail. But he’s also been an incredible friend and mentor to me and my wife Emma throughout my career.
What would your last request dish be? It has to be a perfectly cooked cote de boeuf with my two favourite sauces – peppercorn and bearnaise – served with crisp chips and a lovely rocket and parmesan salad. Or a huge pile of Padstow crab bound with a little mayonnaise, lemon and cracked black pepper on toast.
What one piece of advice would you give to aspiring chefs? We have a ‘Recipe for Life’ at The Ainsworth Collection which says: Work hard and be kind. Stay humble. Stay teachable. Show loyalty. Value feedback. Listen to learn, not just to reply. Show gratitude. Be the hardest worker in the room. And keep hustling! These would be my pieces of advice. And never give up!
Who are your favourite Cornish food producers/suppliers? Over the years we’ve built great relationships with a number of brilliant food producers. We get our fish from Flying Fish, our meat from Philip Warren & Son Master Butchers, our mussels and oysters from Porthilly Shellfish, and our dairy from Rodda’s and Trewithen. We also get fruit and vegetables from Mora Farm, and fantastic eggs from St Ewe. There are so many brilliant producers I could mention.
What’s your favourite Christmas food / recipe and why? My favourite festive day is Boxing Day, when I love to cook bubble and squeak with Christmas Day leftovers topped with a lovely fried Rich Yolk St Ewe free range egg. I serve this with an array of proper Christmas condiments from hedgerow jelly to piccalilli.
Do you have any interesting / unusual Christmas food traditions from your family? Our Christmas Day tradition is a walk on the beach with my wife Emma, our girls Ci Ci and Audrey, and our Cavapoo Freddie. Then we head to The Mariners which is open on Christmas Day morning for drinks, to wish our locals, visitors and team a merry Christmas.
What is the go-to dish you’d recommend for home cooks hosting Christmas.
My go-to dish which is delicious on Christmas Day is a glazed baked ham, which feeds the family with everything from ham, egg and chips through to cold cuts and sandwiches right through until New Year.
Photos by: We The Food Snobs
