Paul was born and raised in North Yorkshire and has recently moved to Cornwall – having spent his career working with some of the best British chefs including Gary Rhodes, Richard Corrigan and Andrew Pern amongst others – to open his new restaurant Fern.
Did you always want to be a chef?
Yes, since my school days. Food was always interesting to me and having been lucky enough to travel as a kid and eat in restaurants I was intrigued and excited by cooking. I became a chef because I wanted to create food moments and memories for others. For me some of the best times in my life revolve around the table – food, drink and social times with loved ones. So, if I can help create those special times for others, all the better.
What’s your earliest food memory
I guess holidays abroad, trying new things, and family Sunday lunches as a kid build up my nostalgic early food memories for sure. But I would say that it’s the start of my cooking career that brings the biggest impact and inspiration to becoming a chef. My first real job was at the Star Inn in Harome for Andrew Pern – this really showed me the industry and opened my eyes to what you need to dedicate to this job. I’ll never forget my first day, a Land Rover arrived at the back of the restaurant dropping off the day’s game shoot yield and it was my job to prep, feather and clean the various feathered and furred game, it was both mind and eye opening and I was totally hooked.
What’s your favourite ingredient to work with and why?
So hard to pin down just one, as for me all ingredients and seasons inspire me. If I must pick, I’d say cheese is one of my favourites, for the flavour profiles and using it for seasoning to add an unami flavour to dishes or as a dessert in cheesecakes, ice-creams or mousses. It’s such a versatile ingredient with so many uses.
What one piece of advice would you give to aspiring chefs?
Be focused on learning to build your career and don’t fast track for position or titles early on. Find a chef mentor and allow them to give you the grounding all chefs need, work hard and dedicate your early part of your career to learning, moulding and building of your repertoire, your knowledge, confidence and style. What you put in at the start you get back in the future, trust me.
Aside from your own, what Cornish restaurants would you recommend?
Well, I’m still a relative newbie to Cornwall and there are lots of places on my list to try, but I have to say all the restaurants run by good mate Paul Ainsworth are truly amazing. Jude Kereama’s Kota is also great, Ardor in St Ives and Plonk’d in Wadebridge too.
Who are your favourite Cornish food producers/suppliers?
Johnny Godden and the brilliant Flying Fish needs a shout out – Cornwall has some of the best seafood in its larder and Flying Fish has supplied me incredible fish for years even before I moved down and so nice to get it on the doorstep now I’m here. Also, Aral Farm – what Rose and Conor are building is brilliant and shows true passion and hard work.
Do you have any interesting/unusual Christmas food traditions from your family?
Christmas is all about family and the year long wait for Christmas lunch. Turkey is the go-to for us but with the risk to it being dry and over cooked when cooking whole, I always remove the legs, to focus on cooking the crown properly. I then bone out, trim and add sage, onion and chestnut stuffing to the legs, they are tied and roasted separately, and this makes the leg easier to carve, serve and enjoy. Must also shout out to a new tradition to me that I’ve been introduced to by my Partner Mish – Boxing Day Pie…. the leftovers made into a delicious pie, bound in a sauce and topped with shortcrust pastry, then baked to perfection. A great way to enjoy leftover roast.
